Iceland Kicked Our Butts (It was worth it.)

Traveling in Iceland without a tour can be as tricky as it is rewarding, but it is worth the extra preparation. Traveling on your own will save you money and cultivate a unique experience full of adventure! When my partner and I decided to go to Iceland, we originally planned the most ambitious 10-day trip to take advantage of our limited time there. The initial itinerary had us living in a van, hiking at least 20 miles daily, cooking all our meals, and long nighttime drives to the next destination, where we would camp and hike again in the morning. We threw together a list of everything we wanted to see and figured, in a van, we could hit them all. We could go at our own pace without being weighed down by a tour schedule, even if that meant we would be uncomfy for a while.

We overestimated ourselves. 

Though Iceland is beautifully etched into my memory as one of the most humbling and breathtaking adventures of my life, it was also one of the most stressful and uncomfortable. Admittedly, we made mistakes that could have easily been avoided with the proper preparation. Now that the trip is over and we are safe at home, I would love to share our experience so you can avoid our mistakes and get the most out of your trip to Iceland.

Why It’s Worth the Discomfort

For the plot. Duh. 

But seriously, the breathtaking ecological landscape is unlike anywhere in the world. Resting on the boundary of tectonic plates, Iceland is home to both volcanic activity and iconic glaciers. It is dubbed the Land of Fire and Ice for a reason! It’s a cornucopia of geological marvels that make you feel like you’ve gone back in time or you’ve stumbled upon a world humans have not yet touched. 

The country was a feast for the body and soul. My lungs, so accustomed to the muggy metropolitan smog, stung as they inhaled the clean, crisp air. My eyes welled at the untamed grandeur of mighty glaciers, smoking volcanos, powerful waterfalls, and the mesmerizing Northern Lights. My skin was dirty from tracing my hand along craters, and the treks in the snow, sand, and mud. My nose wrinkled at the smell of sulfur from geysers. 

I was at the mercy of the elements with only the clothes on my back, a van for respite, and a companion to share the joy (as well as the stress.)

Even if you disregard everything in this guide and do it your own way, Iceland is worth the adventure. Where else can you marvel at beaches, volcanoes, glaciers, natural hot springs, craters, waterfalls, and more in a single country within ten days of driving? If you love nature and adventure, Iceland is a must. 

Our 10-Day Iceland Itinerary

I will never claim to be an expert on a place or an expert on anything really, but if my experience can help someone else, I am more than happy to share! See below for our 10-day itinerary from Los Angeles to Iceland and a few tips we picked up along the way.

Friday, February 24, 2023 – Sunday, March 5, 2023

Ring Road in a Van!

Day 1: Los Angeles-Copenhagen, Denmark

1. Left LAX and arrived in Copenhagen in the evening.
2. Drooled over pastries at Sankt Peders Bageri.
3. Dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar for dinner.
   • It’s got a Michelin star and we highly recommend it! We ordered oysters, Fiskebarens raw cuts, Halibut (roasted Jerusalem artichokes, seaweed, and clams porridge on pearl barley, buckwheat, and lovage), and Fiskebaren’s sourdough bread & seaweed butter. 
4. Visited Nyhavn.
   • It’s not as exciting at night, but we wanted to take advantage of our only night in Copenhagen. If it’s late, we recommend just getting a good night’s sleep.

Day 2: Copenhagen -> Reykjavík, Iceland -> Snaefellsjökull National Park

1. Woke up and carb-o-loaded at Anderson Bakery then headed to Copenhagen International Airport.
2. Arrived in Iceland in the afternoon.
3. Took the Lava Car Rental shuttle outside the airport to the rental location. 
   • We rented a Renault Kangoo Camper Van for $71 USD per day. It came with a camping stove, kitchen essentials, sleeping bags, blankets, and a heater. It was still FREEZING so I was glad I also brought my sleeping bag liner from REI. 
   • We had numerous issues with our rental like busted doors, USB ports that stopped charging our phones, and overheating engines. We wanted to save money, but it would have been worth renting a nicer van or renting a regular car and staying comfortably in hostels. 
   • The Highlands and F-roads are closed in the winter, so we didn’t need to look into a 4×4.
4. Drove to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula visitor center parking lot in Snaefellsjökull National Park and slept in the van.

Day 3: Snaefellsjökull National Park -> Thingvellir National Park

1. Hiked the Snaefellsjökull trail along the cliffs until 3 pm. Turned around to hike to big rocks (Lóndrangar basalt cliffs) until dark.
2. Drove to Thingvellir National Park.
   • It was pitch black and windy. There are no lights along the road, and oftentimes no railings. If you are a skittish driver, I recommend driving in the daytime. 
   • We ran into car trouble as we ascended the mountains, so we parked at a Thingvellir public parking lot and slept there. Good thing we bought portable wifi to help us troubleshoot. 
   • The wind rocked the van all night and it was almost extremely difficult to get the van doors open or shut, even with two people. It would have been impossible to do solo (at least for me!).

Day 4: Thinglivir -> Seljalandsfoss Waterfall -> Skogafoss Waterfall

1. Drove to the Thinglivir trailhead then hiked up to the volcano.
   • The trail is beautifully maintained, but the wind makes it challenging. Bring a face buff and gloves. This trip would have been miserable without those two!
2. Drove to Seljalandsfoss Waterfall for a bathroom break and pics.
   • It was then we realized driving at night felt dangerous, so we opted to drive when there was still sunlight. 
   • It’s gorgeous everywhere. Loosen your itinerary and stop whenever you see something interesting!
3. Arrived at Skogafoss Waterfall Visitor’s Center to make camp.
   • If you don’t want to pay camping fees, you can literally park anywhere on the side of the road and camp there!

Day 5: Skogafoss Waterfall -> Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach, Vik -> Skatefell National Park

1. Hiked Laugavegur Trail: Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk until snow made it impassable.
   • If you go in winter, start the day later and the sky clears up! It goes against the backpacker’s intuition to start the day late, but it might be worth it to sleep in and wait out the clouds. 
2. Stopped in Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach, Vik.
   • If it’s not high tide, you can escape the crowds by going around the basalt hexagonal rocks. You feel like you have the whole beach to yourself (if you do not mind getting a little wet!)
3. Stopped at a small trailhead 30 minutes before reaching Skatefell Glacier to avoid paying a camping fee. We decided to take a mini hike and sleep there overnight. We saw the Aurora Borealis!
   • The Northern Lights happen when it is extremely dark and cold. This was the first non-cloudy night, and it was spectacular. Freezing, but spectacular. I also downloaded Northern Light Aurora Forecast. It would notify me whenever the chances to see the Northern Lights were high.

Day 6: Skatefell National Park -> Höfn

1. Drove to Skatefell Glacier Visitor’s Center and hiked S3.
   • If you go in the winter, bring crampons if you want to finish the loop! It’s icy.
2. Drove to a hostel at Hofn (because we really needed a shower and we were tired of the #vanlife.)
   • It seems like nothing dries in Iceland. For the last few days, our clothes were damp and cold. At least at a hostel we could wash and dry the essentials over the heater. 
   • SOCKS are essential. Feel free to overpack socks.

Day 7: Höfn -> Hangifoss Waterfall

1. Arrived at Hangifoss Waterfall Trailhead in East Iceland and hiked to the waterfall.
   • Lots of mud this time of year. Wear boots or be prepared for wet socks all the way.
2. Stayed at a hostel in East Iceland.

Day 8: Godafoss Waterfall -> Námafjall Geothermal Area

1. Drove to Godafoss Waterfall then Námafjall Geothermal Area.
   • We spent a lot of time driving. Download playlists of your favorite songs or audiobooks before your trip and bring an aux to make the long drives entertaining.
2. Stayed in a cute Airbnb farmhouse.

Day 9: Grabrok Crater -> Thinglivir National Park -> Reykjavík

1. Visited Grabrok Crater in West Iceland.
2. Visited Thinglivir National Park.
3. Drove back to Reykjavík and returned the car rental. 
   • We had a lot of issues with our rental. We wanted to save money, but it would have been worth it to get a nicer van or a regular car and stay comfortably in hostels.
   • Lava Car Rental has a free shuttle to the airport. We then took a shuttle from the airport to a bus terminal in downtown Reykjavík where we stayed in a hostel.
     • Taxis are expensive to get from the airport to downtown. The shuttle is a quarter of the cost.

Day 10: Reykjavík -> Copenhagan -> Los Angeles

1. Walked to the Reykjavik bus terminal to shuttle to the airport. 
2. Arrived in Denmark and then boarded the 10hr plane ride back home.
3. Got back to LA, showered, then devoured all-you-can-eat Korean BBQ.

Tips on Tips

• F-Roads and the Highlands are closed until summer!
• In winter, the sun sets early, so plan your hikes accordingly.
• If you are traveling in a van, you can park and sleep anywhere along the side of the road. No need to pay camping fees!
• N1 Gas stations are a lifesaver, and they are all over Iceland. Their food options are quality and they have everything you might need!

• Bonus grocery stores were our favorite for getting the necessities.
• Food in Iceland is expensive. I recommend cooking instead of eating out.
• Bring crampons if you intend on hiking. It is called Iceland after all.
• Traveling along the Ring Road is not remote as you might expect. There is cell service and numerous opportunities for gas and food. Be prepared, but it is not like you are in the backcountry. 
• Honestly, in the winter, we wished we planned to stay in hostels throughout the trip instead of staying in the van. Our van was cramped. It was cold. Everything stayed damp, and it started to smell after a few days. 

• The rain and wind are gnarly. Bring layers on layers to keep yourself safe and dry.
• I love solo travel, but I absolutely needed another person on this trip!
• You can 100% save money by doing Iceland without a tour but doing it cheaply might distract you from actually enjoying your trip. Assess your tolerance level of discomfort and see what is best for you!

Let’s Go!

Our 10-day Iceland trip was one of the most intense yet breathtaking adventures of my life. It was an adventure we carved out ourselves by doing it our own way (for better or for worse, haha). I hope you get to experience the beauty of this country too! 

Have any questions about our Iceland travel itinerary? Leave a comment, and I’ll try my best to answer. 🙂